Looking for a gentle skincare product, that unclogs pores, kills bacteria, improves skin discoloration, and can be used when pregnant and breastfeeding amongst a slew of other things? Well, how about the often-overlooked Azelaic acid? (pronounced; AZ-A-LAY-IC)
Azelaic acid is an underrated skincare item, even though it carries many amazing benefits for the skin. Not to mention, it’s already found IN our skin. That’s right; our bodies produce it! Which is another reason why our skin takes so well to it.
We always hear about salicylic acid, glycolic acid, and lactic acid. But Azelaic Acid often gets left out of the skincare conversation. However, that’s starting to change as more people are experiencing great results!
What is azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid is a multi-beneficial acne ingredient used for the treatment of acne, melasma, hyperpigmentation, and other skin concerns.
It is created from a natural yeast called Malassezia furfur that is found in healthy skin, and certain grains, like barley, wheat, and rye.
Azelaic acid already being found in the skin is an added benefit as your skin is already comfortable and used to it.
It works great for all skin types, including those with sensitive skin. So, if your skin is unable to handle retinol, which can be a little harsh for some, this product just might be right for you!
This gentle acid carries a PH between 4 and 5 which is close to the PH of normal skin!
What does azelaic acid do for the skin?
Azelaic acid works to help a multitude of skin issues. From dark spots and acne to skin conditions like melasma and rosacea. It even works to heal inflammation on the skin. Azelaic acid has many benefits and can transform your skin from the inside out!
Acne/inflammation– acne occurs when there is a buildup of oil and dead skin cells. Azelaic acid goes deep into the skin to unclog the pores and kill the bacteria that cause acne. It also helps with the post inflammatory marks and keeping new pimples from forming. Great for treating flare-ups and maintaining control of acne.
Melasma & hyperpigmentation – Melasma is a common skin condition that leaves patches or spots on your skin that show up darker than your skin tone. Hyperpigmentation is darker spots on the skin that are caused by an increase in melanin.
Due to its ability to block the production of pigment-producing cells, Azelaic acid is a common ingredient used for treating Melasma, hyperpigmentation, and anyone suffering from dark spots left by acne.
Whenever the skin is producing extra melanin, and you develop darker spots on the skin, the azelaic acid targets the particular area to slow down the melanin production.
Rosacea – Rosacea is another skin condition that azelaic acid famously works to treat. Rosacea causes red patches on the skin and is often accompanied by small bumps. Azelaic acid helps with reducing the inflammation of the redness and preventing the bacteria from growing on your skin.
A 15% azelaic gel is said to work best for mild to moderate cases of rosacea.
Perioral dermatitis – Red tiny bumps that often look like a scaly rash that typically form around the mouth. Azelaic acid helps to heal the inflammation of the rash.
Brightens & Refines Skin – Due to the exfoliating properties found in AA it works great in sloughing off dead skin cells and improving the texture and appearance of the skin.
How to use? How often to use?
The way we apply our skincare has a lot to do with how effective it is. See post on(Skincare Mistakes: 12 Mistakes You May be Making)
Because Azelaic acid is an antioxidant it is a great ingredient to use in your morning routine. An antioxidant means it protects the skin against free radicals and sun damage that can lead to premature aging, wrinkles, and damaged skin.
After cleansing, but before your moisturizer and sunscreen is a great place to apply. Remember that you should apply azelaic acid over your entire face. This product is not meant for spot treatments.
It is also a great product to use morning and night if you’re dealing with hyperpigmentation or redness on the skin as with rosacea or melasma and trying to target and minimize these skin conditions.
Step 1: Cleanser – a gentle non exfoliating cleanser. Azelaic acid has exfoliating properties, so it is best to use a cleanser that is non-harsh and won’t cause irritation or dryness.
Step 2: azelaic acid – can use a gel, cream, or serum form. Use a pea-sized amount and smooth over the entire face.
Step 3: moisturizer – apply moisturizer all over the face and neck.
Step 4: sunscreen – you always want to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen in your morning routine!
Tingling sensation/ consistency?
It is not uncommon to feel a light tingling sensation when first using. This is why it is best to begin slowly with just a few days a week and build your way up to daily usage over time to see how your skin reacts.
However, you will see the best results of azelaic acid with consistent use. With regular use, you should start to see healthy, clearer-looking skin within a few months! But will changes skin sensitivity over long periods of use.
With longer periods of use, it also increases skin sensitivity. Meaning, your once sensitive skin, might not be so sensitive anymore. That certain product that your skin just couldn’t handle, may be able to tolerate after a few months of using azelaic acid! A win, win!
What kind of azelaic acid should you use?
Azelaic acid comes in many forms. You can find it in serums, creams, gels, face wash etc. Whichever form works best with your skin is the best for you!
You can purchase it over the counter or through a prescription from a doctor.
10% is the highest percentage you can receive over the counter. Anything higher, like 15% or 20% will need a prescription.
It is recommended to start with a low amount between 5-10% and then work your way up until you see the desired benefits!
Mistakes of azelaic acid?
Infrequent use – This is such a big one! You will need to be consistent to see results. Just like other products find a routine that works for you and stick with it!
Not using for correct purpose – Not for scars in deeper layers of skin or fine lines and wrinkles. AA is not the best product to use for your eyes and neck. It is best to find a specific eye and neck creme if that is what you are looking for.
Layering with the wrong products – Although azelaic acid is a product that works well with a lot of skincare products, try to steer clear of using strong or irritating products like retinol or alcohol-based products that could cause dryness and irritation. If wanting to use these types of products together make sure you put them in different routines. Try the azelaic acid in the morning and the retinol products at night!
Conclusion
Azelaic acid is such a great multi-functional product. If you are looking for another product to try to help your skin, give this gem a try! Just remember to start slowly assessing how your skin is reacting to the product and to be consistent! Share your results with this amazing product in the comments below!
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